Sirbaz Khan

Sirbaz Khan (born 1986.12.03) is a Pakistani mountaineer.[1][2] He is the first Pakistani to summit all 14 eighth-thousander peaks in the world.[3][4]

Early life

Sirbaz was born in Aliabad, Hunza Valley in 1987.[5] His father was a carpenter and his first expedition was as an assistant cook for the base camp of K2 when he was in 9th grade.[6]

Career

He initially started his climbing career working as a porter for foreign climbers but in 2016 he was sponsored by the Nepalese climber Mingma Sherpa for an expedition to climb K2.[7] Although the duo failed in their attempt but in October 2017 Sirbaz successfully summited Nanga Parbat becoming the first to climb the mountain in autumn season. In July 2018, Sirbaz climbed the 8,611-metre (28,251 ft) tall K2 — the second-tallest mountain in the world.

In May 2019, Sirbaz became the first Pakistani to successfully summit the 8,516-metre (27,940-foot) high Mount Lhotse – the world’s 4th highest mountain - without using supplementary oxygen.[8]

In July 2019, Sirbaz climbed the summit of the 8,047-metre (26,401 ft) Broad Peak mountain in Pakistan, without using supplementary oxygen.[9]

In September 2019, Sirbaz became the first Pakistani to scale Mount Manaslu, the world's 8th highest peak, in Nepal.[10]

In April 2021, Sirbaz and Muhammad Abdul Joshi became the first Pakistanis to scale the 8,091-metre Annapurna peak in Nepal, the 10th highest mountain in the world.[11]

In May 2021, Sirbaz reached the summit of the world's highest peak Mount Everest, in Nepal.[12]

In July 2021, Sirbaz successfully climbed the 8,035-metre (26,362 ft) high Gasherbrum-II, the world's 13th-tallest peak.[13]

In October 2021, Sirbaz climbed the 8,167-metre (26,795 ft) high Dhaulagiri mountain in Nepal.[14]

In May 2022, Sirbaz climbed the world's 3rd-highest peak, Kanchenjunga, in Nepal.[15] Later in May, Sirbaz summited the 8,481-metre (27,825 ft) high Mount Makalu in Nepal, the world's 5th highest peak.[16]

In July 2022, Sirbaz climbed the 8,611-metre (28,251 ft) high K2 — the 2nd highest mountain in the world.[17]

In August 2022, Sirbaz successfully climbed the 8,080-metre (26,510 ft) high Gasherbrum-I, the 11th highest mountain in the world.[18][19]

In October 2023, Sirbaz summited the world’s sixth-highest peak, Cho Oyu (8,201 metres), in Tibet.[20] Later in October 2023, Sirbaz Khan and Naila Kiani called off their attempted ascent of Shishapangma peak in Tibet, after surviving an avalanche near its summit.[21][22]

In May 2024, Sirbaz reached the summit of the world's highest peak Mount Everest, in Nepal without using supplemental oxygen.[23]

In September 2024, Sirbaz and Shehroze Kashif began their final ascent to Shishapangma the last of the world's 14 eight-thousander's peak[24] and on 3 October, they successfully reached the summit making Sirbaz the first Pakistani to climb all 14 of the eight thousander mountains.[25]

References

  1. ^ "Mountaineer Sirbaz Khan's journey from cook to ace climber". The Express Tribune. 9 October 2023.
  2. ^ "Scaling Beyond the Dangers". Hilal.
  3. ^ "Sirbaz to become first Pakistani to summit 14 eight-thousanders". 2024-10-03. Retrieved 2024-10-04.
  4. ^ "Sirbaz Khan becomes first Pakistani to conquer 14 world's highest peaks". www.geosuper.tv. Retrieved 2024-10-04.
  5. ^ "Sirbaz Khan's Player Profile - Khilari".
  6. ^ Agency, Anadolu (2023-10-09). "Mountaineer Sirbaz Khan's journey from cook to ace climber". The Express Tribune. Retrieved 2024-10-04.
  7. ^ "Pakistan's Sirbaz Khan ascends Mt. Everest without using supplementary oxygen". www.aa.com.tr. Retrieved 2024-10-04.
  8. ^ "Sirbaz makes history at world's 4th highest peak". Daily Times. 28 May 2019.
  9. ^ "Sirbaz Khan climbs world's 12th highest mountain". The News International. 23 July 2019.
  10. ^ "Sarbaz Khan climbed up the world's eighth highest peak". Bol News. 25 September 2019.
  11. ^ "Sirbaz, Joshi become first Pakistanis to summit Nepal's 'treacherous' Annapurna peak". Dawn. 16 April 2021.
  12. ^ "Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan summits Everest, 7 more 8,000ers to go". Dawn. 12 May 2021.
  13. ^ Benavides, Angela (18 July 2021). "Gasherbrum II Summits, Tough Going on Broad Peak » Explorersweb". Explorersweb.
  14. ^ "Sirbaz Khan becomes first Pakistani to scale 9 of world's 14 highest peaks". Dawn. 1 October 2021.
  15. ^ "Sirbaz Khan becomes first Pakistani to scale 10 of world's 14 highest peaks". Dawn. 7 May 2022.
  16. ^ Nagri, Jamil (28 May 2022). "Sirbaz Khan, Shehroze Kashif summit Nepal's Makalu in yet another feat". DAWN.
  17. ^ Jamal, Sana (July 22, 2022). "Samina Baig, Dubai-based Naila Kiani first Pakistani women to climb K2". Gulf News. Pakistan's accomplished climbers Sohail Sakhi and Sirbaz Ali Khan also summited K2 along with the Dubai-based Pakistani climber Naila — who is known as the 'K2 Bride' as her love for mountains inspired her to have a small wedding celebration at the K2 base camp in 2018.
  18. ^ Lakhani, Faizan (August 12, 2022). "Pakistani mountaineer one step closer to summit all 14 8-thousanders". Geo News.
  19. ^ Nagri, Jamil (13 August 2022). "Six Pakistanis among eight summit Gasherbrum-I". DAWN.
  20. ^ Nagri, Jamil (3 October 2023). "Pakistani climbers summit Cho Oyu". DAWN.
  21. ^ Nagri, Jamil (8 October 2023). "Naila, Sirbaz survive Tibet avalanche". DAWN.
  22. ^ "Two bodies recovered from Shishapangma, Tenjen, Rzucidlo still missing". The Himalayan Times. 8 October 2023.
  23. ^ Nagri, Jamil (22 May 2024). "Sirbaz summits Everest sans supplementary oxygen". DAWN.
  24. ^ "Pakistani mountaineers Sirbaz Khan, Shehroze Kashif begin final ascent to make history on Shishapangma". The Nation. 2024-09-26. Retrieved 2024-10-04.
  25. ^ "Sirbaz Khan makes history by summiting all 14 eight-thousanders". www.thenews.com.pk. Retrieved 2024-10-04.