Chinese headwear has a long history. According to some scholars, China used to be called "the Kingdom of Headwear" by people due to its variety of colourful and artistic style of hair ornament.[1] There were various categories for headwear including guan (Chinese: 冠; pinyin: guān; lit. 'crown/hat/cap'), mao (Chinese: 帽; lit. 'hat/cap'), jin (Chinese: 巾; lit. 'kerchief'), ze (Chinese: 帻; lit. 'turban'), and mian (Chinese: 冕; lit. 'crown').[2][3]: 6 Chinese people also wore Chinese hairpins. Chinese women, in particular, like to use flowers (either natural or artificial) as hair decorations for centuries; they also wore shubi in their hair and sometimes wore the honggaitou on their weddings.
Loyal and stable crown. Worn by retired officials.[19][20]
Adult
Ming
Wu guan (武冠)/Wu bian (武弁)/Wubian daguan (武弁大冠)
Military Crown. Wuguan was derived from the Zhaohuiwenguan (趙惠文冠), designed by King Wuling of Zhao, which was ornamented with a dang (璫; a gold ornament in the form of animals, such as dragons, cicada, and people) on the front and with sable's tail.[21] By the Han dynasty, military caps called wubian were commonly worn by soldiery, with formal guan variants worn by high-ranking military officials and imperial bodyguards, which were decorated with long-tailed pheasant's tail feathers as a symbol of martial prowess.[22][23][24]
Hair-gathering Crown. A small cap to gather hair inside, fixed with long hairpin. Daily wear of all male. Mini size, sometimes in shapes of Liangguan.[25]
Adult
Five Dynasties - Ming
Chang Guan (长冠)
Long Crown, also known as "Liu family crown" (刘氏冠) or "Magpie tail crown" (鹊尾冠). Designed and first worn by Emperor Gaozu of Han based on Chu headwear. Later worn by Han dynasty's emperors and high officials during ceremonies.[26]
Adult
Han
Long Guan (籠冠)
"Basket hat". Developed from the Wubian("武弁")-hat, alternatively also known as Wuguan "武冠", worn by military officials.[27][28] Helmets or tall peaked caps; it extends down over the ears and neck.[24] It is semi-transparent.[28]
Head cover/Head wrap. An early form of informal headwear dates back as early as Jin dynasty that later developed into several variations for wear in different occasions.
"Spread-horn head cover". Designed by Emperor Taizu. Elongated horns on both sides can keep the distance between officials so they couldn't whisper to each other during court assemblies.
"Spread-wing head cover". Commonly as "wushamao" (乌纱帽), or "black-muslin hat". Standard headwear of officials during the Ming dynasty. The term wushamao is still frequently used as Chinese slang referring to government positions.
Adult
Ming
Yishan Guan (翼善冠)
Philanthropy Crown, with wings folded upwards. Worn by emperors and princes of the Ming dynasty, as well as kings of many China's tributaries. Sometimes decorated with jewels and dragons.
Adult
Ming
Tang jin (唐巾)
Based on the futou, worn by commoners, particularly scholars.
'Six-part' United hat. Name originate from Ming dynasty's founder Hongwu Emperor uniting China. The hat would later develop into the "Guapi mao"(瓜皮帽) skullcap in the Qing dynasty. Worn by commoners.[31]
Adult
Ming - Qing
Zhanli (毡笠)
Wide brimmed hat.
Adult
Song
Jin (巾)/ Tou jin (头巾)/ Zhajin (扎巾)
Headscarf worn by commoners, tied around the head or sometimes the topknot to protect the hair. In the Song dynasty, the headscarf was also secured with a decorative ring.[32]
Zhou - Ming
Jinze (巾帻) /Jieze (介帻) / Pingshanze (平上幘)
A cylindrical cap; it has a higher back and lower front. Originally it was a soldiers' headscarf that later developed into a head covering cap in the Han Dynasty and adopted into widespread use.[33] A red jinze called chize (赤帻) was used by military personnel, while another variant called jieze(介帻) is used by civil officials and servants.[34][24] Later developed into the pingshangze, which had a flatter top decorated with a bamboo slip, worn by military officials.
Worn by Quanzhen School Taoists, popularised during the Qing dynasty.
Adult
Ming - Modern times
Jie jin (結巾) / Jiang jin (將巾)
Also known as "general's headscarf". Worn by tying the two ends of the kerchief on top of the head. Commonly worn by military personnel.[38]
Adult
Song - Ming
Guan jin (綸巾)/Zhuge jin (諸葛巾)
Originally a style of fujin, later resembling a liangguan. Named after Zhuge Liang, who wore a guanjin. [39]
Adult
Han – Ming
Huayang jin (華陽巾)
Worn by Taoists.
Adult
Five dynasties – Qing
Lei jin (雷巾)
Adult
Ming – Qing
Piaopiao jin (飘飘巾) / Piao jin (飘巾)
Popular among scholar-gentry. Named after the flowing ribbons behind it. Later inspired opera costume such as qiaoliangjin (桥梁巾) for its refined and cultured appearance.[40]
Adult
Ming
Li jin (吏巾)
Worn by minor government officials, it resembles a wushamao but made with softer material and square top.[41]
Adult
Ming
Ru jin (儒巾)
Ruist scarf. Popularly worn by scholars, especially those who have yet to earn the title of Juren at the imperial examination. Believed to be based on a headwear called zhangfu (章甫). [42]
Adult
Song – Ming
Sifang pingding jin (四方平定巾) / Fang jin (方巾) / Sifang jin (四方巾)
First worn and named by Yang Weizhen. Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang was pleased by its appearance and name, and ordered it to be used by scholars and minor government clerks. [43]
Worn under headwear to secure and protect the hair.
Adult
Ming
Xiaoyao jin (逍遥巾)
Also known as "Heye jin" (荷叶巾), "Huadingtou jin" (花顶头巾). Worn by commoners, later adopted by Taoists. Originally worn by scholars to differentiate from peasants. [44]
Adult
Song - Ming
Yun jin (雲巾)
Modeled after the Zhongjin guan, but worn by the scholar-gentry. Named after the "cloud" shapes formed on the sides.
Adult
Ming
Zaoli jin (皁隸巾)
Named after and worn by yamen runners. Due to the low status and the headwear not able to cover the forehead, it is also nicknamed "faceless guan"(無顏之冠)[45]
Adult
Ming
Zhouzi jin (周子巾)
Worn by commoners.
Adult
Song – Ming
Zhuangzi jin (莊子巾)
Also called "Dao jin" (道巾). Named after Zhuangzi. Worn by common scholars and Taoists, later exclusively by Taoist priests.
Adult
Song – Modern times
Beiye jin (貝葉巾)
Resembling palm tree leaves. Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry.
Adult
Ming
Chanfu jin (蟬腹巾)
Resembling cicada's thorax. Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry.
Adult
Ming
Kui jin (葵巾)
Resembling flower petals. Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry.
A purple gauze which hangs on a hat from the front to the back with 4 ribbons of different colours hanging down from on the shoulders. Originated from the Tang dynasty's weimao (帷帽).[53]
A hat worn by the Hakka women, a Han ethnic subgroup when working in the fields. It is made of a flat disc of woven bamboo with a hole in the centre and has a black (or blue) cotton fringe.[54][55]
^"36". Book of Han. 今王氏一姓乘朱轮华毂者二十三人，青紫貂蝉充盈幄内，鱼鳞左右。
^"120". Book of Later Han. 进贤冠，古缁布冠也，文儒者之服也。前高七寸，后高三寸，长八寸。公侯三梁，中二千石以下至博士两梁，自博士以下至小史私学弟子，皆一梁。宗室刘氏亦两梁冠，示加服也。
^"25". Book of Jin. 王莽頂禿，又加其屋也。《漢注》曰，冠進賢者宜長耳，今介幘也。冠惠文者宜短耳，今平上幘也。始時各隨所宜，遂因冠為別。介幘服文吏，平上幘服武官也。“进贤冠，古缁布遗象也，斯盖文儒者之服。前高七寸，后高三寸，长八寸，有五梁、三梁、二梁、一梁。人主元服，始加缁布，则冠五梁进贤。三公及封郡公、县公、郡侯、县侯、乡亭侯，则冠三梁。卿、大夫、八座，尚书，关中内侯、二千石及千石以上，则冠两梁。中书郎、秘书丞郎、著作郎、尚书丞郎、太子洗马舍人、六百石以下至于令史、门郎、小史、并冠一梁。汉建初中，太官令冠两梁，亲省御膳为重也。博士两梁，崇儒也。宗室刘氏亦得两梁冠，示加服也。”
^"67". History of Ming. 帝因复制《忠静冠服图》颁礼部，敕谕之曰："祖宗稽古定制，品官朝祭之服，各有等差。第常人之情，多谨于明显，怠于幽独。古圣王慎之，制玄端以为燕居之服。比来衣服诡异，上下无辨，民志何由定。朕因酌古玄端之制，更名'忠静'，庶几乎进思尽忠，退思补过焉。朕已著为图说，如式制造。在京许七品以上官及八品以上翰林院、国子监、行人司，在外许方面官及各府堂官、州县正堂、儒学教官服之。武官止都督以上。其馀不许滥服。"礼部以图说颁布天下，如敕奉行。按忠静冠仿古玄冠，冠匡如制，以乌纱冒之，两山俱列于后。冠顶仍方中微起，三梁各压以金线，边以金缘之。四品以下，去金，缘以浅色丝线。
^"120". Book of Later Han. "武冠，一曰武弁大冠，諸武官冠之。侍中、中常侍加黃金璫，附蟬為文，貂尾為飾，謂之'趙惠文冠'。胡廣說曰：「趙武靈王效胡服，以金璫飾首，前插貂尾，為貴職。秦滅趙，以其君冠賜近臣。」建武時，匈奴內屬，世祖賜南單于衣服，以中常侍惠文冠，中黃門童子佩刀云。 王先謙 集解：" 趙惠文王 ， 武靈王 子也。其初制必甚麤簡，金玉之飾，當即 惠文 後來所增，故冠因之而名。"
^"120". Book of Later Han. "武冠，俗謂之大冠，環纓無蕤，以青系為緄，加雙鶡尾，豎左右，為鶡冠云。五官、左右虎賁、羽林、五中郎將、羽林左右監皆冠鶡冠，紗縠單衣。虎賁將虎文絝，白虎文劍佩刀。虎賁武騎皆鶡冠，虎文單衣。襄邑歲獻織成虎文云。鶡者，勇雉也，其鬥對一死乃止，故趙武靈王以表武士，秦施之焉。"
^Nanjing Museum General Office. "Info of 'Amber Shufa Guan'". 束发冠是古代男子用来约发的小冠，属闲居之服。出现在五代，宋代以后使用者渐多，至明代尤为盛行。束发冠通常以玉石、木材或金属丝制成，此外也有牛角、龟壳、椰壳等质地的。外形变化较多，常见者作梁冠状，有的还缀有各种珠宝，使用时扣覆在发髻之上，以簪子固定。
^"120". Book of Later Han. 长冠，一曰斋冠，高七寸，广三寸，促漆纚为之，制如板，以竹为里。初，高祖微时，以竹皮为之，谓之刘氏冠，楚冠制也。民谓之鹊尾冠，非也。祀宗庙诸祀则冠之。皆服袀玄，绛缘领袖为中衣，绛裤袜，示其赤心奉神也。五郊，衣帻裤袜各如其色。此冠高祖所造，故以为祭服，尊敬之至也。
^"11". Book of Sui. 武冠，一名武弁，一名大冠，一名繁冠，一名建冠，今人名曰籠冠，即古惠文冠也。天子元服，亦先加大冠。今左右侍臣及諸將軍武官通服之。侍中常侍，則加金璫附蟬焉，插以貂尾，黃金為飾云。
^"120". Book of Later Han. 古者有冠無幘，其戴也，加首有頍，所以安物。故詩曰「有頍者弁」，此之謂也。三代之世，法制滋彰，下至戰國，文武並用。秦雄諸侯，乃加其武將首飾為絳袙，以表貴賤，其後稍稍作顏題。漢興，續其顏，卻摞之，施巾連題，卻覆之，今喪幘是其制也。名之曰幘。幘者，賾也，頭首嚴賾也。至孝文乃高顏題，續之為耳，崇其巾為屋，合後施收，上下群臣貴賤皆服之。文者長耳，武者短耳，稱其冠也。尚書幘收，方三寸，名曰納言，示以忠正，顯近職也。迎氣五郊，各如其色，從章服也。皁衣群吏春服青幘，立夏乃止，助微順氣，尊其方也。武吏常赤幘，成其威也。未冠童子幘無屋者，示未成人也。入學小童幘也句卷屋者，示尚幼少，未遠冒也。喪幘卻摞，反本禮也。升數如冠，與冠偕也。期喪起耳有收，素幘亦如之，禮輕重有制，變除從漸，文也。
^ abcdYuan, Xiaowei (2017). "Traditional Chinese Jewelry Art: Loss, Rediscovery and Reconstruction Take Headwear as an Example". Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference on Contemporary Education, Social Sciences and Humanities (ICCESSH 2017). Paris, France: Atlantis Press. doi:10.2991/iccessh-17.2017.135. ISBN978-94-6252-351-7.
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