Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure (1 June 1906 – 24 February 1999),[4][5][6] known professionally as Biki,[7] was a notable Italian fashion designer and couturier of the post-war period based in Milan.[6] Her clients were mainly connected to the La Scala opera,[1] and she is known as the creator of the style for Maria Callas,[1][8] whom she first met in 1951 at a dinner party organized by Wally Toscanini.[2]
Bouyeure was born in Milan on 1 June 1906.[5] She studied at A. Manzoni linguistic school where she also learned music and singing.[4] Bouyeure travelled to Paris many times and decided to learn fashion. After a few years apprenticeship she created a line of French-style underwear named "Domina" (the name was proposed by the poet Gabriele D'Annunzio who was a friend of the Puccini family).[4]
On 5 May 1936 she opened her atelier in Milan on via Senato,[4][5] catering mostly to La Scala opera singers.[1] Her long-term cooperation with Maria Callas started in 1954.[1]
Bouyeure designed a plain black evening cape in wool crepe for Callas that she wore for the 1970 opening of the Teatro alla Scala season in Milan, a paisley coat in 1971,[10] and also a floor-length dress with silk satin collar which she wore in 1973 for the farewell concert at the Royal Festival Hall in London.[2]
In 1967 Bouyeure worked with the Italian fashion photographer Johnny Moncada and in 1968 for the Linea Italiana magazine.[11]
The name Biki was given to Bouyeure as a child by her step grandfather Puccini, who called her Bicchi (Italian "biricchina" meaning naughty girl).[13] She married art expert Robert Bouyeure in 1936.[4] They had a daughter named Roberta, born in 1937.[4]
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