International sport climbing competition
2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup Organiser IFSC Edition 30th Events Locations
Meiringen , Switzerland
Moscow, Russia
Chongqing , China
Tai'an , China
Hachioji , Japan
Vail , United States
Villars , Switzerland
Chamonix , France
Briançon , France
Arco , Italy
Munich , Germany
Kranj , Slovenia
Wujiang , China
Xiamen , China
Dates 13 April – 28 October 2018 Men Jakob Schubert Women Janja Garnbret Team AustriaMen Jernej Kruder Women Miho Nonaka Team Men Bassa Mawem Women Anouck Jaubert Team Russian Federation Men Jakob Schubert Women Janja Garnbret
The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 14 locations. There were 22 events: 7 bouldering , 7 lead , and 8 speed events. The season began on 13 April in Meiringen , Switzerland, and concluded on 28 October in Xiamen , China.
The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points , which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.
The winners for bouldering were Jernej Kruder and Miho Nonaka , for lead Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret , for speed Bassa Mawem and Anouck Jaubert , and for combined Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret , men and women respectively.
The National Team for bouldering was Japan, for lead Austria, and for speed Russian Federation .
Highlights of the season
In bouldering, at the World Cup in Munich , Janja Garnbret of Slovenia flashed all boulders in the final round to take the win.
Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi , both of Japan, were the only athletes who never missed a podium in all 7 bouldering competitions in the season.
In lead climbing, Janja Garnbret was the only athlete who never missed a podium in all 7 lead competitions in the season.
In speed climbing, at the first Speed World Cup of the season in Moscow, Anouck Jaubert of France matched the world record of 7.32 seconds set by Iuliia Kaplina of Russia at the 2017 World Games in Wrocław .[ 1] Then at the end of the season, French athletes, Bassa Mawem and Anouck Jaubert clinched the overall titles of the season for men and women respectively, making it double speed titles for France.
Changes from the previous season
For the 2018 season the IFSC changed the scoring method for its tournaments. Previously in bouldering, topped boulders were the deciding factor, followed as tiebreakers in decreasing order of importance: attempts to tops, bonus holds (renamed to zones ), and attempts to bonus holds. The first and second tiebreakers switched places which means that the results were determined by tops, zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones.[ 2] Also athletes now need to demonstrate firm control of the two starting hand holds. Previously touching all four marked start points in any manner was deemed sufficient to start an attempt.[ 3]
Overview
Bouldering
An overall ranking was determined based upon points , which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were seven competitions in the season, but only the best six attempts were counted. The national ranking was the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses were not counted.
Men
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[ 4]
Rank
Name
Points
Munich
Vail
Hachioji
Tai'an
Chongqing
Moscow
Meiringen
1
Jernej Kruder
442.00
2. 80.00
4. 55.00
8. (38.00)
2. 80.00
6. 47.00
2. 80.00
1. 100.00
2
Tomoa Narasaki
400.00
9. 35.00
3. 65.00
2. 80.00
8. 40.00
11. (31.00)
1. 100.00
2. 80.00
3
Rei Sugimoto
334.00
8. 40.00
1. 100.00
3. 65.00
4. 55.00
12. (28.00)
10. 34.00
8. 40.00
4
Alexey Rubtsov
296.00
14. (23.00)
9. 37.00
5. 51.00
12. 27.00
3. 65.00
5. 51.00
3. 65.00
5
Gregor Vezonik
280.00
1. 100.00
14. 24.00
-
3. 65.00
13. 26.00
3. 65.00
-
6
Kokoro Fujii
260.00
7. 43.00
18. (16.00)
16. 20.00
5. 51.00
1. 100.00
17. 18.00
12. 28.00
7
Chon Jong-won
247.00
-
7. 43.00
4. 55.00
6. 47.00
-
4. 55.00
6. 47.00
8
Tomoaki Takata
218.00
17. 18.00
6. 47.00
11. 31.00
10. 34.00
25. (5.00)
9. 37.00
5. 51.00
9
Yuji Fujiwaki
207.00
5. 51.00
8. 40.00
13. 26.00
11. 31.00
15. 22.00
28. (3.00)
9. 37.00
9
Jakob Schubert
207.00
3. 65.00
-
-
12. 27.00
4. 55.00
25. 5.00
4. 55.00
Women
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[ 5]
Rank
Name
Points
Munich
Vail
Hachioji
Tai'an
Chongqing
Moscow
Meiringen
1
Miho Nonaka
500.00
2. 80.00
2. 80.00
2. 80.00
2. 80.00
2. 80.00
2. (80.00)
1. 100.00
2
Akiyo Noguchi
495.00
3. 65.00
3. 65.00
1. 100.00
1. 100.00
1. 100.00
3. 65.00
3. (65.00)
3
Fanny Gibert
320.00
4. 55.00
4. 55.00
7. 43.00
3. 65.00
8. (40.00)
5. 51.00
5. 51.00
4
Janja Garnbret
280.00
1. 100.00
-
-
-
-
1. 100.00
2. 80.00
5
Katja Kadic
246.00
5. 51.00
23. (7.00)
11. 31.00
7. 43.00
6. 47.00
10. 34.00
8. 40.00
6
Staša Gejo
222.00
-
-
4. 55.00
4. 55.00
3. 65.00
15. 22.00
13. 25.00
7
Ekaterina Kipriianova
210.00
6. 47.00
-
3. 65.00
10. 34.00
4. 55.00
21. 9.00
-
8
Futaba Ito
179.00
7. 43.00
-
6. 47.00
13. 26.00
16. 20.00
8. 40.00
27. 3.00
9
Shauna Coxsey
174.00
-
7. 43.00
9. 37.00
-
-
6. 47.00
6. 47.00
10
Alma Bestvater
168.00
12. 28.00
6. 47.00
5. 51.00
23. 7.00
12. 28.00
23. 7.00
-
National Teams
The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[ 6]
Country names as used by the IFSC
Rank
Nation
Points
Munich
Vail
Hachioji
Tai'an
Chongqing
Moscow
Meiringen
1
2269
(337)
387
419
363
371
362
367
2
Slovenia
1344
345
(108)
109
208
139
310
233
3
France
823
163
(91)
102
111
197
93
157
4
Austria
735
173
61
(22)
110
154
64
173
5
Russian Federation
591
85
(37)
144
101
121
72
68
6
Germany
534
103
143
69
58
112
49
(27)
7
United States
503
15
284
86
57
9
(3)
52
8
Republic of Korea
418
0
81
75
89
-
98
75
9
Great Britain
366
21
74
101
30
(19)
47
93
10
Italy
269
22
(1)
139
24
7
48
29
Lead
An overall ranking was determined based upon points , which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.
Men
6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in parentheses) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2018.[ 7]
Rank
Name
Points
Xiamen
Wujiang
Kranj
Arco
Briançon
Chamonix
Villars
1
Jakob Schubert
495.00
16. (20.00)
2. 80.00
2. 80.00
1. 100.00
4. 55.00
2. 80.00
1. 100.00
2
Stefano Ghisolfi
466.00
2. 80.00
5. 51.00
1. 100.00
2. 80.00
5. (51.00)
1. 100.00
4. 55.00
3
Romain Desgranges
356.00
6. 47.00
1. 100.00
20. 12.00
9. 37.00
2. 80.00
27. (4.00)
2. 80.00
3
Domen Škofic
356.00
1. 100.00
19. (14.00)
12. 28.00
3. 65.00
3. 65.00
4. 55.00
7. 43.00
5
Min Hyun-bin
251.00
3. 65.00
3. 65.00
-
8. 40.00
17. 18.00
18. 16.00
6. 47.00
6
Alexander Megos
230.00
-
-
-
12. 28.00
1. 100.00
3. 65.00
9. 37.00
7
Taisei Homma
217.00
5. 51.00
8. 40.00
13. 26.00
-
9. 37.00
7. 43.00
16. 20.00
8
Sascha Lehmann
206.00
8. 40.00
17. 18.00
25. (6.00)
6. 47.00
7. 43.00
8. 40.00
17. 18.00
9
Yuki Hada
192.00
7. 43.00
20. (12.00)
7. 43.00
14. 24.00
12. 28.00
19. 14.00
8. 40.00
10
Francesco Vettorata
168.00
15. 22.00
6. 47.00
6. 47.00
22. 9.00
20. 12.00
11. 31.00
-
Women
6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets ) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2018.[ 8]
Rank
Name
Points
Xiamen
Wujiang
Kranj
Arco
Briançon
Chamonix
Villars
1
Janja Garnbret
550.00
2. 80.00
1. 90.00
2. 80.00
1. 100.00
1. 100.00
2. (80.00)
1. 100.00
2
Jessica Pilz
505.00
1. 100.00
3. 65.00
4. (55.00)
2. 80.00
2. 80.00
1. 100.00
2. 80.00
3
Jain Kim
354.00
10. 34.00
1. 90.00
1. 100.00
-
-
3. 65.00
3. 65.00
4
Manon Hily
238.00
14. (24.00)
8. 40.00
11. 31.00
6. 47.00
11. 31.00
10. 34.00
4. 55.00
5
Mei Kotake
228.00
5. 51.00
13. 26.00
9. 37.00
16. 20.00
-
5. 51.00
7. 43.00
6
Tjasa Kalan
224.00
7. 43.00
6. 45.00
12. 28.00
9. 37.00
28. (3.00)
9. 37.00
9. 34.00
7
Hannah Schubert
219.00
11. 31.00
9. 37.00
3. 65.00
19. (14.00)
13. 26.00
8. 40.00
16. 20.00
8
Mina Markovič
214.00
6. 47.00
22. (9.00)
8. 40.00
10. 34.00
5. 51.00
12. 28.00
19. 14.00
8
Akiyo Noguchi
214.00
3. 65.00
4. 55.00
-
-
-
7. 43.00
5. 51.00
10
Mia Krampl
211.00
4. 55.00
6. 45.00
10. 34.00
-
7. 43.00
21. 10.00
14. 24.00
National Teams
For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets ).[ 9]
Rank
Nation
Points
Xiamen
Wujiang
Kranj
Arco
Briançon
Chamonix
Villars
1
Austria
1528
230
269
264
250
(218)
232
283
2
1468
305
246
242
160
(135)
235
280
3
Slovenia
1428
282
194
(182)
238
266
210
238
4
France
959
95
160
(81)
185
251
84
184
5
Italy
822
118
135
202
111
99
157
(55)
6
Republic of Korea
652
107
177
107
41
(27)
91
129
7
Belgium
382
80
55
(22)
105
65
47
30
8
United States
377
15
13
(0)
108
89
105
47
9
Suisse
373
40
(18)
67
78
49
71
68
10
340
-
-
23
45
100
111
61
Speed
An overall ranking was determined based upon points , which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.
Men
7 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.[ 10]
Rank
Name
Points
Xiamen
Wujiang
Arco
Chamonix
Villars
Tai'an
Chongqing
Moscow
1
Bassa Mawem
448.00
1. 100.00
9. 37.00
8. 40.00
3. 65.00
4. 55.00
1. 100.00
5. 51.00
-
2
Danyil Boldyrev
437.00
14. 24.00
8. 40.00
1. 100.00
1. 100.00
3. 65.00
7. 43.00
3. 65.00
-
3
Dmitrii Timofeev
429.00
4. 55.00
7. 43.00
4. 55.00
2. 80.00
11. 31.00
3. 65.00
1. 100.00
15. (22.00)
4
Reza Alipour
415.00
3. 65.00
3. 65.00
3. 65.00
9. 37.00
8. 40.00
-
7. 43.00
1. 100.00
5
Aleksandr Shilov
358.00
13. 26.00
4. 55.00
2. 80.00
5. 51.00
2. 80.00
10. 34.00
10. 32.00
-
6
Aspar Jaelolo
341.00
2. 80.00
1. 100.00
-
-
-
4. 55.00
2. 80.00
13. 26.00
7
Aleksandr Shikov
289.00
-
16. 20.00
9. 37.00
14. 24.00
1. 100.00
9. 37.00
6. 47.00
14. 24.00
8
Ludovico Fossali
272.00
15. 22.00
2. 80.00
15. 22.00
6. 47.00
17. (18.00)
15. 22.00
10. 32.00
6. 47.00
9
Li Jinxin
254.00
7. 43.00
6. 47.00
-
10. 34.00
6. 47.00
-
4. 55.00
12. 28.00
10
Vladislav Deulin
237.00
5. 51.00
13. 26.00
5. 51.00
-
-
21. 9.00
16. 20.00
2. 80.00
Women
7 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.[ 11]
Rank
Name
Points
Xiamen
Wujiang
Arco
Chamonix
Villars
Tai'an
Chongqing
Moscow
1
Anouck Jaubert
550.00
3. 65.00
2. 80.00
3. 65.00
11. (31.00)
1. 100.00
1. 100.00
8. 40.00
1. 100.00
2
Aries Susanti Rahayu
420.00
1. 100.00
1. 100.00
-
-
-
3. 65.00
1. 100.00
4. 55.00
3
Iuliia Kaplina
414.00
2. 80.00
3. 65.00
1. 100.00
13. 26.00
7. 43.00
16. 20.00
16. (20.00)
2. 80.00
4
Mariia Krasavina
402.00
7. 43.00
4. 55.00
2. 80.00
3. 65.00
3. 65.00
7. 43.00
9. (37.00)
5. 51.00
5
Anna Brozek
299.00
8. 40.00
9. 37.00
5. 51.00
7. 43.00
5. 51.00
4. 55.00
15. 22.00
-
6
Elena Timofeeva
298.00
5. 51.00
20. (12.00)
8. 40.00
16. 20.00
17. 18.00
14. 24.00
2. 80.00
3. 65.00
7
Anna Tsyganova
292.00
16. 20.00
6. 47.00
-
2. 80.00
-
6. 47.00
4. 55.00
7. 43.00
8
Elena Remizova
266.00
4. 55.00
18. 16.00
20. (12.00)
6. 47.00
8. 40.00
9. 37.00
6. 47.00
14. 24.00
9
Sari Agustina
239.00
9. 37.00
5. 51.00
-
-
-
2. 80.00
7. 43.00
12. 28.00
10
Victoire Andrier
235.00
14. 24.00
12. 28.00
13. 26.00
14. 24.00
2. 80.00
15. 22.00
11. 31.00
20. (12.00)
National Teams
For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets) .[ 12]
Combined
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Combined World Cup 2018:[ 13]
Men
Women
Season podium table
Medal table
References