Tiramisu[a] is an Italiandessert made of ladyfinger pastries (savoiardi) dipped in coffee, layered with a whipped mixture of egg yolks, sugar, and mascarpone, and flavoured with cocoa powder. The recipe has been adapted into many varieties of cakes and other desserts.[1] Its origin is disputed between the Italian regions of Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The name comes from the Italian tirami su (lit.'pick me up' or 'cheer me up').[2]
History
Tiramisu in Naples, Italy
Tiramisu appears to have been invented in the late 1960s or early 1970s, but where and when exactly is unclear.[3][4] Some believe the recipe was modeled after sbatudin, a simpler dessert made of egg yolks and sugar.[5] Others argue it originated from another dish, dolce Torino.[6]
The tiramisu recipe is not found in cookbooks before the 1960s.[7][8][9] It is mentioned in a Sydney Morning Herald restaurant column published in 1978.[10] It is not mentioned in encyclopaedias and dictionaries of the 1970s,[11][12][13] first appearing in an Italian dictionary in 1980,[14] and in English in 1982.[15] It is mentioned in a 1983 cookbook devoted to cooking of the Veneto region.[16]
Obituaries for the restaurateur Ado Campeol (1928–2021) reported that it was invented at his restaurant Le Beccherie in Treviso on 24 December 1969 by his wife Alba di Pillo (1929–2021) and the pastry chef Roberto Linguanotto (1943–2024).[17][18][19] The dish was added to its menu in 1972.[20][21][22] At the time of his death in July 2024, the Le Beccherie restaurant credited Linguanotto as the creator of the tiramisu.[23]
It has been claimed that tiramisu has aphrodisiac effects and was concocted by a 19th-century Treviso brothel madam, as the Accademia Del Tiramisù explains, to "solve the problems they may have had with their conjugal duties on their return to their wives".[19][24]
There is evidence of a tiremesù semi-frozen dessert served by the Vetturino restaurant in Pieris, in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, since 1938.[25] This may be the name's origin, while the recipe for tiramisu may have originated as a variation of another layered dessert, zuppa inglese.[26] Others claim it was created towards the end of the 17th century in Siena in honour of Grand Duke Cosimo III.[27]
On 29 July 2017, tiramisu was entered by the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies on the list of traditional Friulian and Giulian agri-food products in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region.[28][29] In 2013, Luca Zaia, President of Veneto, sought European Union protected status certification for the dessert, based on the ingredients used in 1970, so substitute ingredients, such as strawberries, could not be used in a dish called tiramisu.[30][31][32]
Original ingredients
Traditional tiramisu contains ladyfingers (savoiardi), egg yolks, sugar, coffee, mascarpone, and cocoa powder. A common variant involves soaking the savoiardi in alcohol, such as Marsala wine, amaretto or a coffee-based liqueur. The original tiramisu made at Le Beccherie was circular.[33]
Variations
Tiramisu birthday cake
The original shape of the cake is round, although the shape of the biscuits also allows the use of a rectangular or square pan. However, it is often assembled in round glasses, which show the various layers, or pyramids. Modern versions can have the addition of whipped cream or whipped egg whites, or both, combined with mascarpone. This makes the dish lighter, thick and foamy. Among the most common alcoholic changes includes the addition of Marsala wine. The cake is usually eaten cold.[34]
Another variation involves the preparation of the cream with eggs heated to sterilize it, but not so much that the eggs scramble. Over time, replacing some of the ingredients, mainly coffee, there arose numerous variants such as tiramisu with chocolate, amaretto, berry, lemon, strawberry, pineapple, yoghurt, banana, raspberry, and coconut.
Numerous variations of tiramisu exist. Some cooks use other cakes or sweet, yeasted bread, such as panettone, in place of ladyfingers (savoiardi).[35] Bakers living in different Italian regions often debate the use and structural qualities of utilising other types of cookies, such as pavesini for instance, in the recipe.[36] Other cheese mixtures are used as well, some containing raw eggs, and others containing no eggs at all. Marsala wine can be added to the recipe, but other liquors are frequently substituted for it in both the coffee and the cheese mixture, including dark rum, Madeira, port, brandy, Malibu or Irish cream and especially coffee-flavoured liqueurs such as Tia Maria and Kahlúa.[37]
^Pellegrino Artusi (1960–1991). "Torte e dolci al cucchiaio". La Scienza in cucina e l'arte di mangiar bene. Giunti Editore. p. 571. ISBN88-09-00386-1.
^Fernando Raris; Tina Raris (1998). La Marca gastronomica: amore e nostalgia per la cucina e i vini di nostra tradizione. Treviso: Canova Editore. p. 31. ISBN88-87061-55-6.
^Cremona, Luigi (2004). Italia dei dolci. Touring Editore. p. 57. ISBN88-365-2931-3.
^Lane, Trevor (30 August 1978). "The Irish in Paddington". Eating Out. The Sydney Morning Herald. p. 20. Archived from the original on 1 August 2023. Retrieved 28 February 2023 – via Newspapers.com.
^Soletti, Francesco; Toscani, Ettore (2004). L'Italia del caffè (in Italian). p. 110.
^"Diciassettesima revisione dell elenco dei prodotti agroalimentari tradizionali" [Seventeenth revision of the list of traditional agri-food products]. Ministry of Agriculture, Food Sovereignty and Forestry (in Italian). p. 24. Archived from the original on 26 June 2023. Retrieved 26 June 2023. pdf download=page 26 Regione Autonoma Friuli-Venezia Giulia item 137
