Kazuya Hiraide (平出和也, Hiraide Kazuya, May 25, 1979 – July 27, 2024) was a Japanese ski mountaineer, Alpine climber, and professional mountain cameraman.[1] Hiraide won the Piolet d'Or mountaineering award on four occasions.
Climbing career
Hiraide became a serious mountain climber after joining a mountaineering club at his university. In 2001, he reached the eastern summit of Kula Kangri (7,381m) in Tibet. His list of accomplishments includes first ascents, reaching summits without oxygen, and skiing from mountain peaks. In 2009, he scaled the previously unclimbed southeastern wall of Kamet (7,756m) in India, and with his climbing partner Kei Taniguchi, became the first Japanese to receive the 17th Piolet d'Or Award, the "Academy Award" of mountaineering. He also won three other Piolet d'Or Awards with climbing partner Kenro Nakajima for their first ascent on an uncharted route with Shispare in 2017, Rakaposhi in 2019 and Terich Mir in 2023.[2][3] He also received the Japan Sports Award, sponsored by the Yomiuri Shimbun newspaper, in 2001 and 2009.
On July 28, 2024 it was reported that Hiraide fell when attempting an ascent of the western face of K2 together with Kenro Nakajima.[4] Two figures were spotted by a rescue helicopter which failed to land next to them and described them as "motionless".[5][6]
In 2024, Hiraide's wife Joko Hiraide accepted his 2023 posthumous Piolet d'Or award on his behalf.[7]
Kula Kangri East Peak (7381m), Pakistan, first ascent
Cho Oyu (8201m) China, summit, ski down from top
2003
Kunyang Chhish (7852m), Pakistan, first try, west face
2004
Golden Peak (7027m), Pakistan, new route, north west ridge, summit
Lila Peak (6200m), Pakistan, new route, east face, summit
Kunlun Mustag (6355m), China, new route, summit
2005
Mustag Ata (7564m), China, second ascent, east ridge, summit, ski down to west side
Shivling (6543m), India, new route, north face to west face, summit
2007
Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, first try, north east face
2008
Gasherbrum II (8035m), Pakistan, summit
Broad Peak (8047), Pakistan, summit
Kamet (7756m), India, new route, south east face, summit
2009
Gasherbrum I (8068m), Pakistan, Summit
Gaurishankar (7134m), China, first try, east face
2010
Ama Dablam (6856m), Nepal, first try, north west face
2011
Everest (8848m), Nepal, south side, summit
Naimonanyi (7694m), China, new route, south west ridge, summit, south peak (7200m), first ascent, first try, south east face
2012
Khan Tengri (7010m), Kazakh, north side, summit
Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, first try, south west face
2013
Everest (8848m), Nepal, summit
Diran (7266m), Pakistan, west ridge, summit
Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, first try, south west face
2014
Everest (8848m), Nepal, south side
Hkakabo Razi (5881m), Myanmar, first try, north ridge
2015
Everest (8848m), China, north side
Api (7132m), Nepal, north side, summit
2016
Everest (8848m), China, north side, summit
2017
Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, new route, north east face
2019
Rakaposhi (7788m), Pakistan, new route, south face
2023
Tirich Mir (7708m), Pakistan, new route, north face
Awards
2008: Piolet d'Or, together with Kei Taniguchi (谷口ケイ, Taniguchi Kei) for the first ascent of the South-West face of Kamet (7756m, India) in alpine style
2017: The 26th Piolet d'Or Award and The 12th Piolet d'Or Asia Award, together with Kenro Nakajima for the first ascent of the North-East face of Shispare (7611m, Pakistan) in alpine style.[12]
2019: The 28th Piolet d'Or Award, together with Kenro Nakajima for the first ascent of the south face of Rakaposhi (7788m, Pakistan) in alpine style.[13]
2024: The 32nd Piolet d'Or Award, together with Kenro Nakajima for the first ascent of Secret Line on the north face of Tirich Mir (7708m, Pakistan). [3]
