The 2019 Combined Japan Cup was the second of the competition. It was organized by the JMSCA (Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association). It was held from 25 to 26 May 2019 in Saijō city, Ehime Prefecture. The athletes competed in combined format of three disciplines: speed, bouldering, and lead. The winner for men was Tomoa Narasaki and for women was Miho Nonaka.[1][2]
Schedule
| Men
|
Women
|
| 25 May (Qualifications)
|
| 09:00 ～ 09:25
|
Speed
|
12:15 ～ 12:40
|
Speed
|
| 09:50 ～ 12:05
|
Bouldering
|
13:05 ～ 15:20
|
Bouldering
|
| 13:00 ～ 14:40
|
Lead
|
16:15 ～ 17:55
|
Lead
|
| 26 May (Finals)
|
| 09:05 ～ 09:25
|
Speed
|
13:05 ～ 13:35
|
Speed
|
| 09:55 ～ 11:19
|
Bouldering
|
13:55 ～ 15:19
|
Bouldering
|
| 11:45 ～ 12:25
|
Lead
|
15:45 ～ 16:25
|
Lead
|
It was held to simulate the latest Olympic combined format. It was also held to decide the athletes to compete in the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships in August.
| Disciplines
|
Qualifications
|
Finals (8)
|
Notes
|
| Speed
|
Athletes climbed twice in two different lanes on a standardized 15-meter wall. Best times counted.
|
Athletes were seeded based on the speed qualification results. Athletes climbed head-to-head with each other in a bracket format.
|
All competitors ran in the same number of races.
|
| Boulder
|
Four boulder problems. Time limit for each boulder was five minutes.
|
Three boulder problems. Time limit for each boulder was four minutes.
|
Score was determined by number of tops, number of zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones in decreasing order of importance.
|
| Lead
|
A single lead route.
|
A single lead route. Time limit to climb the route was six minutes.
|
Score was determined by the highest point reached and the amount of time spent climbing the route.
|
Athletes were ranked based on their scores in separate disciplines. Points were calculated by multiplying the ranks of each athlete in the three disciplines.
Men
Tomoa Narasaki set a new Japan national record for speed climbing of 6.291s in the finals.[3]
| FINALS
|
QUALIFICATIONS
|
| Rank
|
Name
|
Final Points
|
Lead
|
Boulder
|
Speed
|
Rank
|
Name
|
Points
|
Lead
|
Boulder
|
Speed
|
Seed
|
| 1
|
Tomoa Narasaki
|
6.00
|
2. 35+
|
3. 2T3z 4 5
|
1. 6.291
|
3
|
Tomoa Narasaki
|
16.00
|
2. 37+
|
4. 1T4z 3 7
|
2. 6.654
|
2
|
| 2
|
Kai Harada
|
12.00
|
1. Top
|
2. 2T3z 2 4
|
6. fall
|
1
|
Kai Harada
|
6.00
|
1. Top
|
1. 2T4z 5 9
|
6. 7.062
|
11
|
| 3
|
Kokoro Fujii
|
36.00
|
3. 35+
|
6. 1T2z 4 9
|
2. 6.475
|
2
|
Kokoro Fujii
|
6.00
|
3. 37+
|
2. 2T3z 8 9
|
1. 6.528
|
1
|
| 4
|
Keita Dohi
|
40.00
|
5. 34
|
1. 3T3z 5 5
|
8. 7.273
|
5
|
Keita Dohi
|
294.00
|
6. 37+
|
7. 1T4z 4 11
|
7. 7.168
|
4
|
| 5
|
Yoshiyuki Ogata
|
72.00
|
6. 34
|
4. 2T3z 4 5
|
3. 6.680
|
6
|
Yoshiyuki Ogata
|
390.00
|
13. 32
|
10. 1T2z 1 2
|
3. 6.703
|
8
|
| 6
|
Meichi Narasaki
|
80.00
|
4. 34+
|
5. 1T2z 2 5
|
4. 8.263
|
4
|
Meichi Narasaki
|
60.00
|
4. 37+
|
3. 1T4z 1 13
|
5. 6.945
|
6
|
| 7
|
Ryoei Nukui
|
280.00
|
7. 31+
|
8. 0T1z 0 5
|
5. 6.798
|
7
|
Ryoei Nukui
|
704.00
|
16. 30
|
11. 1T2z 3 4
|
4. 6.811
|
12
|
| 8
|
Taisei Ishimatsu
|
392.00
|
8. 25+
|
7. 1T2z 7 9
|
7. 7.062
|
8
|
Taisei Ishimatsu
|
840.00
|
14. 31+
|
6. 1T4z 4 8
|
10. 7.486
|
5
|
|
|
9
|
Yuta Imaizumi
|
972.00
|
9. 34+
|
12. 1T2z 6 7
|
9. 7.459
|
14
|
| 10
|
Masahiro Higuchi
|
1045.00
|
5. 37+
|
19. 0T1z 0 4
|
11. 7.525
|
18
|
| 11
|
Shuta Tanaka
|
1088.00
|
8. 37+
|
8. 1T4z 7 18
|
17. 8.364
|
17
|
| 12
|
Rei Sugimoto
|
1440.00
|
12. 32
|
15. 0T2z 0 8
|
8. 7.327
|
3
|
| 13
|
Rei Kawamata
|
1615.00
|
17. 29
|
5. 1T4z 3 10
|
19. 8.577
|
16
|
| 14
|
Taito Nakagami
|
2520.00
|
7. 37+
|
20. 0T1z 0 6
|
18. 8.459
|
19
|
| 15
|
Hiroto Shimizu
|
2700.00
|
10. 34
|
18. 0T1z 0 2
|
15. 8.096
|
7
|
| 16
|
Tomoaki Takata
|
2730.00
|
15. 31+
|
14. 0T2z 0 7
|
13. 7.943
|
9
|
| 17
|
Yuji Inoue
|
2808.00
|
18. 26+
|
13. 0T2z 0 3
|
12. 7.560
|
13
|
| 18
|
Ao Yurikusa
|
2992.00
|
11. 33+
|
17. 0T2z 0 14
|
16. 8.354
|
20
|
| 19
|
Keita Watabe
|
3420.00
|
19. 24+
|
9. 1T3z 3 4
|
20. 8.612
|
10
|
| 20
|
Yuya Kitae
|
4480.00
|
20. 23
|
16. 0T2z 0 10
|
14. 7.957
|
15
|
Women
Miho Nonaka set a new Japan national record for speed climbing of 8.499s in the qualifications.[4]
| FINALS
|
QUALIFICATIONS
|
| Rank
|
Name
|
Final Points
|
Lead
|
Boulder
|
Speed
|
Rank
|
Name
|
Points
|
Lead
|
Boulder
|
Speed
|
Seed
|
| 1
|
Miho Nonaka
|
7.00
|
7. 35+
|
1. 2T3z 2 3
|
1. 8.790
|
1
|
Miho Nonaka
|
20.00
|
5. 36
|
4. 1T4z 5 15
|
1. 8.499
|
2
|
| 2
|
Akiyo Noguchi
|
12.00
|
2. 46+
|
2. 2T3z 6 8
|
3. 10.097
|
4
|
Akiyo Noguchi
|
32.00
|
4. 36+
|
2. 2T3z 3 4
|
4. 9.452
|
3
|
| 3
|
Ai Mori
|
12.00
|
1. Top
|
3. 1T3z 1 11
|
4. 12.018
|
3
|
Ai Mori
|
27.00
|
1. Top
|
3. 2T2z 9 4
|
9. 12.167
|
5
|
| 4
|
Natsuki Tanii
|
72.00
|
3. 46+
|
4. 0T2z 0 3
|
6. 12.781
|
5
|
Natsuki Tanii
|
132.00
|
2. 37+
|
6. 1T2z 1 2
|
11. 12.443
|
10
|
| 5
|
Nanako Kura
|
128.00
|
8. 30
|
8. 0T1z 0 8
|
2. 10.820
|
7
|
Nanako Kura
|
225.00
|
15. 27+
|
5. 1T3z 4 8
|
3. 9.450
|
15
|
| 6
|
Futaba Ito
|
150.00
|
6. 38
|
5. 0T2z 0 9
|
5. 10.075
|
2
|
Futaba Ito
|
24.00
|
12. 27+
|
1. 4T4z 15 10
|
2. 8.992
|
4
|
| 7
|
Mei Kotake
|
210.00
|
5. 39+
|
6. 0T1z 0 1
|
7. 11.682
|
8
|
Mei Kotake
|
240.00
|
6. 32
|
8. 1T2z 5 6
|
5. 11.061
|
8
|
| 8
|
Natsumi Hirano
|
224.00
|
4. 39+
|
7. 0T1z 0 4
|
8. 11.760
|
6
|
Natsumi Hirano
|
168.00
|
3. 37
|
7. 1T2z 2 3
|
8. 11.832
|
6
|
|
|
9
|
Yuki Hiroshige
|
672.00
|
8. 28+
|
12. 0T2z 0 11
|
7. 11.567
|
9
|
| 10
|
Mao Nakamura
|
864.00
|
16. 25+
|
9. 1T2z 10 3
|
6. 11.158
|
7
|
| 11
|
Hana Kudo
|
1300.00
|
13. 27+
|
10. 1T2z 10 11
|
10. 12.272
|
14
|
| 12
|
Yuka Higuchi
|
1683.50
|
7. 29+
|
18. 0T0z 0 0
|
13. 12.558
|
13
|
| 13
|
Miu Kurita
|
1728.00
|
9. 28+
|
16. 0T1z 0 4
|
12. 12.545
|
12
|
| 14
|
Risa Ota
|
1936.00
|
11. 28+
|
11. 1T1z 8 8
|
16. 13.514
|
11
|
| 15
|
Serika Okawachi
|
2340.00
|
10. 28+
|
13. 0T1z 0 1
|
18. 14.217
|
17
|
| 16
|
Kokoro Takata
|
3570.00
|
14. 27+
|
17. 0T1z 0 7
|
15. 13.482
|
16
|
| 17
|
Momoka Miyajima
|
3857.00
|
19. 20+
|
14. 0T1z 0 2
|
14. 12.829
|
18
|
| 18
|
Sora Ito
|
4190.50
|
17. 21+
|
14. 0T1z 0 2
|
17. 14.109
|
20
|
| 19
|
Shuri Nishida
|
6327.00
|
18. 21+
|
18. 0T0z 0 0
|
19. 14.744
|
19
|
References